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After changing 3 digitizers and getting the same problem everytime im just happen to close out that ticket and move on.. This part can be used to fix a broken iPad Mini 3 front panel glass! This front glass & digitizer touch screen assembly for iPad Mini 3 is a do-it-yourself ready component that is easier to install because of all the pre-assembled parts. This iPad Mini 3 touch screen includes the IC chip to eliminate the need to transfer the old IC from your broken iPad Mini 3 screen to the new one.
Leave the picks in place, reheat, and reapply the iOpener to the problem areas, and run a pick through the sticking point one more time. If you need to slide the pick over the lower section more than once, remove it and re-insert at the outer edge, and slide inwards. Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.
US White Touch Screen Digitizer IC Board Home Button for Ipad Mini 3 A1599 A1600
Using the technique above, release the adhesive on the left side of the home button. The bottom of the digitizer cable is only ~1" from the bottom of the iPad. Work carefully and slowly, making sure to not sever this cable. If the opening pick is getting stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick as shown in step 9.
If reusing the front panel assembly during reassembly, you will need to replace your display adhesive. Use our display adhesive application guide to reapply your display adhesive and reseal your device. If you encounter a significant amount of resistance, stop twisting.
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If the adhesive is warm enough, remove the iOpener from the iPad for convenience. However, if the adhesive is still quite sticky, re-heat the iOpener and lay it on the left edge while you work. Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, pulling it out slightly to go around the front-facing camera bracket. Reheat the iOpener in the microwave and set it on the left edge of the iPad to start warming the adhesive in that section. You will have to release the adhesive securing the antenna to the front panel without damaging the delicate parts attaching the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. The Wi-Fi antenna is attached to the bottom right edge of the rear case of the iPad via screws and a cable.
Slide the opening pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen. I replaced my ipad mini digitizer with success because of this.
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The Wi-Fi antenna is very close to the corner and is easily severed if the adhesive is released improperly. Do not slide the pick further than the bottom right corner. You may damage the Wi-Fi antenna by doing so.
PS the home button worked on the original screen before I took the screen off. The home button was working outside the ipad, but not working when fully installed. Deinstalled the digitizer and put kapton tape on the home button flex cable. I had the same problem with the home button going crazy after replacement and tried all the above with no success. What finally fixed the problem for me is removing the two long adhesive strips holding the lcd.
Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and not on the socket itself. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely. Use the tip of a spudger to gently lift the battery connector up off its socket on the logic board.
Wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener. Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad. Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive. Always wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener. Pull the suction cup's plastic nub to release the vacuum seal and remove the suction cup from the display assembly.
Because of the orientation of the Wi-Fi antenna, it is imperative to proceed with caution otherwise irreversible damage to the Wi-Fi antenna may result. If you can see the tip of the opening pick underneath the front glass, pull the pick out just a little bit. While using the opening pick this deep won't damage anything, it may get adhesive residue all over the LCD. While the bottom edge is being heated by the iOpener, begin releasing the adhesive from the right edge of the iPad. Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel glass from from the rear case. Carefully place a suction cup halfway up the heated side. Place the iOpener over the home button on the front edge of the display.
Many thanks for your answer, what does it mean loosing the touchID? Could it has some bad effects in my IPad functionality? In the meantime I found a video about a possible replacement without soldering but I have not found in internet, the mentioned black nub. There is no measuring, cutting, trimming, or shaping needed with the front panel adhesive strips preinstalled.
But you're going to want to be very careful as if you damage the turtle IC chip in the home button, you can't repair it and that's what I mean when you will lose touchID. That button is paired or programmed specifically to that device's board. Even if you had a genuine button from another device, it will tell you touchID cannot be verified.
While holding the glass up with the suction cup, slide the point of an opening pick into the gap between the glass and body of the iPad. We recommend waiting at least three minutes before reheating the iOpener. Using your fingers, pull the digitizer ribbon cable out of its recess in the aluminum frame. Using your fingers or a pair of tweezers, pull the LCD ribbon cable from its socket on the logic board. The ribbon cable is fragile and may break if it is flexed too much. The digitizer cable is located approximately 2" from the bottom of the iPad. Stop sliding the pick when you get ~2.25" from the bottom of the iPad.
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